Post by Sally Talfourd on Jan 2, 2023 20:46:39 GMT -6
For nine months, I lived on rise of a mountain near to Cao Bằng. The name of the mountain doesn’t really matter, but from the main bus terminal if you were to drive south-west for an hour, you’d be close to finding the house I stayed. There only two seasons – two types of weather, as best as I can remember: Hot and wet, and wet and hot. Sure, there was the occasional stretch of cold during winter (it can’t be avoided the higher the altitude), but for the most part if it wasn’t hot a sticky and wet, it was hot with torrential rain. At first, I found this difficult to adjust to, but as I got used to it, it all came to seem natural.
The house I’d come to find myself in was old and small, but the property was spacious every direction from the house. Long ago, this had likely been a rice farm in tree directions, with a plot directly out the front of the house for vegetables and anything else to sustain a family. Of course, that was all long gone. Left to its own devices it was a riot of tall grasses and green weeds, with a family of cats having made its home there long before I had. After the first time I had someone over to trim the grass, the cat family moved, and I never saw them again.
Back then, my life had come to a standstill. I was stuck. I was moving neither forwards nor backwards, just ending each day where I had started. Not physically, of course. I couldn’t explain it then, and I guess I still can’t. The cause and effect of how this all came about eluded even those close to me. Though I would end up returning to my life, a mouth agape sits between before my stay near to Cao Bằng and after.
Nine months. I had no notion of whether that was a long or short period of time to be broken off from one’s own life. Looking back, some years later, it seemed as though it had lasted forever. But then again, it passed by in an instant. My feelings on it change, depending on the day. It’s like when people take a photograph of something and they put a common object – say, an apple – alongside for scale. In my mind, that scale changes. Like, the objects and events are in a constant flux.
That’s not to say that all my memories are a haze of that time, with everything expanding and contracting at will. My life had become placid before I’d wanted to ‘get away’ – event if it was rational and well-adjusted. But in those nine months, things were different. It was a period of inexplicable chaos. Confusion. I now see that that part of my life was the exception, a time unlike any other in my life.
When I moved into that house, the first thing I did was buy cheap used furniture. There was no reason to furnish the home with anything more than the home itself was. The inside should match the outside. That meant taking a risk though. You see, there’s none of the types of second-hand, used items stores when you’re this far away from things. I had put word out through the distant family and friends I had in the region that I was looking for enough to make a house liveable. I didn’t need to mention money or the like – the assumption was built in. If a Việt kiều is nearby it’s treated as though an ATM has recently been installed.
By the end of the nine months, I’d end up leaving just about everything I’d filled the house with. There was simply no easy way to bring it with me. Also, I didn’t want any of it. Except for the lamp. Of all the bits and pieces I’d bought, this broken lamp had become the essence of my stay in the mountains. I thought I was being smart when I went to buy it. I asked the man selling it to test it out. It worked fine. He plugged it in, he pushed a switch, the light came on. To really test it, I started talking to the man - Nguyễn Huy Thiệp. We talked for another twenty minutes or so. The light stayed on all that time.
On my way out, at the front door, he held out his hand, quite naturally, and I took it without thinking. A firm handshake at the end concluded our business. What an unusual character, I thought. Friendly enough, not overly quiet. But it was as if he hadn’t said a single thing about himself. I couldn’t help but sense, deep within his smile as I walked away, a solitude that comes from a certain sort of secret.
Grasping the lamp, I walked the hour back to my temporary house. The sun was beating down, and it was early into my stay and so my body was still not used to the oppressive heat. Twice I stopped at roadside stall. At the first I had water and ate half a bag of bánh tráng trộn. Rather than insult the old lady, I thanked her and carried the salad home with no intention of finishing it. At the second stall, my body felt weak and heavy. From the shade, I could make out the winding path that trailed up the mountain. But before that, there was still two, three kilometres to go. I planted the lamp atop a low table and took a seat.
This time, I ordered a cà phê trứng and mixed chè. I prayed that the caffeine and the sugar would carry me the last distance.
While waiting, I inspected the lamp that had become the burden of this quest. It was probably stainless steel, looking at the state of it compared to its age and its locale. As I turned it around in my hands, I imagined it being the prized possession of the family the day it came home. New, mechanical-looking, something from a magazine. Compared to the very little most people around here had; this would have been something. Now it’s being sold off to occupy a space in a shack in the middle of no where, I thought to myself.
The second stop did me a world of good, and with the extra energy, I’d found my way home. The sun had peaked, cresting over the other side of my mountain. The light ebbed away, so the lamp found its first use. I plugged it in, I pushed a switch, but no light came on. I repeated the actions, and merely got the same results. No matter what I tried, the bulb failed. With a sigh, I left it there and retreated to the front terrace. Later in my stay, when the weather was good, I liked to sit on a barely-held-together lounge chair out on the terrace after dinner. If I had some one, I’d enjoy that too while I looked out at the darkening landscape. Slowly, glints and specks of yellow appeared through the valley.
After a meal, the exhaustion that the caffeine and sugar had kept at bay washed over me again. Exhausted, I found my bed. I cast a watchful eye at the lamp as I memorised the route from the light switch to my bed. I’d stubbed my toes twice in the first few days – any future injuries would now be laid at the foot of this broken lamp.
Sometimes in the middle of the night I’d hear a faint rustling sound from the roof above the bedroom. At first, I thought it might be the cat family, or mice, or some bird that had found its way into the attic. But the sound was clearly not that of a rodent’s feet scurrying around. Nor that of a slithering snake. It sounded more like paper being crumpled. Not loud enough to keep me from sleeping – or to wake me up once I’d started - but it did concern me that there was some unknown creature in the house. I figured it might be an animal that could cause some damage.
This night, the silence woke me. That happens sometimes: For some, a sudden noise will cut the silence, waking a person; for others, a sudden silence will cut through sounds. I’m generally a sound sleeper, and don’t wake up until the morning light wakes me. So having my sleep interrupted like that in the middle of the night was unusual.
I lay there in the darkness wondering why I’d awakened at this hour (whatever the hour was – all I knew was that the sun hadn’t risen yet). It was a typical, quiet night. The nearly full moon was a huge round mirror floating across the sky. I sat up and carefully listened. That’s when I realised something was different from usual. It was too quiet. The silence was too deep. Since the house was built in the mountains, after sunset the insects inevitably started their ear-splitting chirping, a chorus that went on until late at night. A genuinely piercing sound. But on this night, there wasn’t a single chirp. It was disconcerting.
Once awake, I found it hard to get back to sleep. After a while, I heard a sound I wasn’t used to. Or perhaps felt like I heard it. It was a very faint sound and if the insects had been chirping as loudly as they usually were, I probably never would have heard it. But the profound silence that reigned allowed it to reach me, though barely. I held my breath and strained my ears. It wasn’t the chirp of any insects.
It was that rustling from the roof above. Faint and delicate. I reached over to the broken lamp. I knew it was broken, but I still made effort to shed some light on the situation. Of course, I pressed the switch. Nothing, not even a flicker. With another sigh, I felt over the lamp in the hopes that – perhaps – there was a second switch I’d not seen. As my fingers hers ran over it, I wondered if this lamp was simply rejecting this home, or me. That it refused to be part of this misadventure and longed to return to that very peculiar man. Maybe it knew its place in the valley and world not function outside of where it needed to be.
It was a broken lamp, wherever it was not meant to be.
The house I’d come to find myself in was old and small, but the property was spacious every direction from the house. Long ago, this had likely been a rice farm in tree directions, with a plot directly out the front of the house for vegetables and anything else to sustain a family. Of course, that was all long gone. Left to its own devices it was a riot of tall grasses and green weeds, with a family of cats having made its home there long before I had. After the first time I had someone over to trim the grass, the cat family moved, and I never saw them again.
Back then, my life had come to a standstill. I was stuck. I was moving neither forwards nor backwards, just ending each day where I had started. Not physically, of course. I couldn’t explain it then, and I guess I still can’t. The cause and effect of how this all came about eluded even those close to me. Though I would end up returning to my life, a mouth agape sits between before my stay near to Cao Bằng and after.
Nine months. I had no notion of whether that was a long or short period of time to be broken off from one’s own life. Looking back, some years later, it seemed as though it had lasted forever. But then again, it passed by in an instant. My feelings on it change, depending on the day. It’s like when people take a photograph of something and they put a common object – say, an apple – alongside for scale. In my mind, that scale changes. Like, the objects and events are in a constant flux.
That’s not to say that all my memories are a haze of that time, with everything expanding and contracting at will. My life had become placid before I’d wanted to ‘get away’ – event if it was rational and well-adjusted. But in those nine months, things were different. It was a period of inexplicable chaos. Confusion. I now see that that part of my life was the exception, a time unlike any other in my life.
When I moved into that house, the first thing I did was buy cheap used furniture. There was no reason to furnish the home with anything more than the home itself was. The inside should match the outside. That meant taking a risk though. You see, there’s none of the types of second-hand, used items stores when you’re this far away from things. I had put word out through the distant family and friends I had in the region that I was looking for enough to make a house liveable. I didn’t need to mention money or the like – the assumption was built in. If a Việt kiều is nearby it’s treated as though an ATM has recently been installed.
By the end of the nine months, I’d end up leaving just about everything I’d filled the house with. There was simply no easy way to bring it with me. Also, I didn’t want any of it. Except for the lamp. Of all the bits and pieces I’d bought, this broken lamp had become the essence of my stay in the mountains. I thought I was being smart when I went to buy it. I asked the man selling it to test it out. It worked fine. He plugged it in, he pushed a switch, the light came on. To really test it, I started talking to the man - Nguyễn Huy Thiệp. We talked for another twenty minutes or so. The light stayed on all that time.
On my way out, at the front door, he held out his hand, quite naturally, and I took it without thinking. A firm handshake at the end concluded our business. What an unusual character, I thought. Friendly enough, not overly quiet. But it was as if he hadn’t said a single thing about himself. I couldn’t help but sense, deep within his smile as I walked away, a solitude that comes from a certain sort of secret.
Grasping the lamp, I walked the hour back to my temporary house. The sun was beating down, and it was early into my stay and so my body was still not used to the oppressive heat. Twice I stopped at roadside stall. At the first I had water and ate half a bag of bánh tráng trộn. Rather than insult the old lady, I thanked her and carried the salad home with no intention of finishing it. At the second stall, my body felt weak and heavy. From the shade, I could make out the winding path that trailed up the mountain. But before that, there was still two, three kilometres to go. I planted the lamp atop a low table and took a seat.
This time, I ordered a cà phê trứng and mixed chè. I prayed that the caffeine and the sugar would carry me the last distance.
While waiting, I inspected the lamp that had become the burden of this quest. It was probably stainless steel, looking at the state of it compared to its age and its locale. As I turned it around in my hands, I imagined it being the prized possession of the family the day it came home. New, mechanical-looking, something from a magazine. Compared to the very little most people around here had; this would have been something. Now it’s being sold off to occupy a space in a shack in the middle of no where, I thought to myself.
The second stop did me a world of good, and with the extra energy, I’d found my way home. The sun had peaked, cresting over the other side of my mountain. The light ebbed away, so the lamp found its first use. I plugged it in, I pushed a switch, but no light came on. I repeated the actions, and merely got the same results. No matter what I tried, the bulb failed. With a sigh, I left it there and retreated to the front terrace. Later in my stay, when the weather was good, I liked to sit on a barely-held-together lounge chair out on the terrace after dinner. If I had some one, I’d enjoy that too while I looked out at the darkening landscape. Slowly, glints and specks of yellow appeared through the valley.
After a meal, the exhaustion that the caffeine and sugar had kept at bay washed over me again. Exhausted, I found my bed. I cast a watchful eye at the lamp as I memorised the route from the light switch to my bed. I’d stubbed my toes twice in the first few days – any future injuries would now be laid at the foot of this broken lamp.
Sometimes in the middle of the night I’d hear a faint rustling sound from the roof above the bedroom. At first, I thought it might be the cat family, or mice, or some bird that had found its way into the attic. But the sound was clearly not that of a rodent’s feet scurrying around. Nor that of a slithering snake. It sounded more like paper being crumpled. Not loud enough to keep me from sleeping – or to wake me up once I’d started - but it did concern me that there was some unknown creature in the house. I figured it might be an animal that could cause some damage.
This night, the silence woke me. That happens sometimes: For some, a sudden noise will cut the silence, waking a person; for others, a sudden silence will cut through sounds. I’m generally a sound sleeper, and don’t wake up until the morning light wakes me. So having my sleep interrupted like that in the middle of the night was unusual.
I lay there in the darkness wondering why I’d awakened at this hour (whatever the hour was – all I knew was that the sun hadn’t risen yet). It was a typical, quiet night. The nearly full moon was a huge round mirror floating across the sky. I sat up and carefully listened. That’s when I realised something was different from usual. It was too quiet. The silence was too deep. Since the house was built in the mountains, after sunset the insects inevitably started their ear-splitting chirping, a chorus that went on until late at night. A genuinely piercing sound. But on this night, there wasn’t a single chirp. It was disconcerting.
Once awake, I found it hard to get back to sleep. After a while, I heard a sound I wasn’t used to. Or perhaps felt like I heard it. It was a very faint sound and if the insects had been chirping as loudly as they usually were, I probably never would have heard it. But the profound silence that reigned allowed it to reach me, though barely. I held my breath and strained my ears. It wasn’t the chirp of any insects.
It was that rustling from the roof above. Faint and delicate. I reached over to the broken lamp. I knew it was broken, but I still made effort to shed some light on the situation. Of course, I pressed the switch. Nothing, not even a flicker. With another sigh, I felt over the lamp in the hopes that – perhaps – there was a second switch I’d not seen. As my fingers hers ran over it, I wondered if this lamp was simply rejecting this home, or me. That it refused to be part of this misadventure and longed to return to that very peculiar man. Maybe it knew its place in the valley and world not function outside of where it needed to be.
It was a broken lamp, wherever it was not meant to be.